by Elena on August 31, 2009
In the summertime Montreal is alive and full of color. This year I was unfortunately unable to attend the festivals, which makes me very sad; fortunately one of my dear friends and talented photographer Jean-Baptiste Duthu, took these wonderful photos at the various festivals held this year. Now I can pretend I was at the festivals with him.
The International Jazz Festival of Montreal is one of the most popular festivals in Montreal, in fact it is one of the biggest jazz festivals in the world. Hundreds of artists perform and there are over 500 shows, some of which are completely free for the public.
Some of my favorite summer festivals include:
The International Jazz Festival of Montreal
Just For Laughs
Les FrancFolies de Montreal
Fashion and Design Festival
Montreal World Film Festival
It seems like Montreal is always celebrating something, not only in the summertime. For a full list of all the festivals in Montreal that take place all year round click here.
These performers give tribute to the British flag by donning the flag as *cough* undergarments.
The Just For Laughs Festival is probably one of the most fascinating festivals for people who like to stroll and people watch. Walking down St. Denis was one of the highlights of the festival. I admit I’m not a big fan of stand up comedy, although many Quebecois comics are much funnier than the comics I have seen in the past; however, the festival provides more than merely stand up comedy. The streets are lined with performers in costumes whose main purpose is to involve the crowd. If you are nearby you are fair game. It is not uncommon to have a close encounter with a man inside a massive inflatable ball that takes up half the street. Also beware of becoming victim to the Just For Laughs TV show. The parade that marks the close of the festivities is no doubt interesting, if not a little strange. The year I attended a huge mechanical figure of a person (the size of a small building) creepily marched down the avenue.
This picture is my favorite of Jean-Baptiste’s photographs, undoubtedly taken during the Just For Laughs Festival. I love the expression on the performer’s face!
by Elena on August 28, 2009
In case you didn’t have enough of my rich, messy, and gluttonous post about poutine, (who really ever has enough rich food) I bring you more devilish food from Montreal. I’m not going to lie and say that I wasn’t extremely excited to go to Au Pied de Cochon, in fact I was giddy all day before we made our way, practically skipping, to a foie gras filled evening. Au Pied de Cochon means leg of pig, and in case you were wondering, pig leg is on the menu. I know that may not seem appealing some, but people all over the world have been cooking with pig feet for years and years. Those rich sauces and stews you love from that fancy French restaurant in your neighborhood most likely has used a pig foot or two for flavor, but don’t think about it too much. The flavors are just too good.
When you come here think French cooking, the richness, the butter, the flavor; but we are not in France, so although Quebecers speak the same language as their counterparts overseas, they do things a little differently. For one, they use their famed maple syrup, which chef Martin Picard drizzles upon some of his popular dishes. My amateur palate would describe the food as French comfort, a meal that Montrealers are proud to admit will keep them warm in the winter.
The menu is a little intimidating including tongue, kidneys, ears, and other goodies that would leave most American children with their mouths shut. For an appetizer (entree in French) we chose Plogue à Champlain, a type of foie gras. The foie gras was seared perfectly and melted like a piece of butter in your mouth. As if the guilt hadn’t set in from eating rich duck liver, the foie gras sits atop a slice of cheese, bacon, a pancake, and potatoes. The dish is then topped off with chopped apples, parsley and maple syrup. It reminds me a little of breakfast, lunch, dinner, and maybe dessert all wrapped up in one. It’s delicious, addictive, and extremely filling.
Duck in a can was our main course. Stereotypically foodies tend to shy away from any food that comes out of a can. My experience with Spanish conservas, food preserved in a can, has taught me differently. They can be quite costly and delicious, therefore the duck in a can seemed like an interesting option.
The duck is cooked within the can after it is dropped in boiling water. This method can be compared to sous-vide where food is slow cooked in an airtight plastic bag, however our server explained that the duck in a can is cooked no longer than 7 minutes, to ensure the juiciness of the duck. He opened the can in front of us and the truly amazing part about the dish was its presentation after our server placed its contents over the toasted bread and potatoes. You will notice the well placed sprig, dangling from the top of the dish. The breast of duck is accompanied with a thin layer of duck fat, foie gras of course, butter-braised cabbage and a sauce that seems made for this dish and this dish only. It’s a good thing all of this sits atop mashed potatoes and toasted bread because you will need something to sop up all the sauce when you are finished.
My interest in Au Pied de Cochon was no doubt influenced by Anthony Bourdain’s trip to the restaurant when he visited Montreal. Chef Martin Picard told his server to keep giving food to Anthony and only ‘when he dies stop.’ I knew that Au Pied de Cochon would be an enjoyment of excess and I wasn’t disappointed.
by Elena on August 26, 2009
Image via: lukelukeluke
It’s a sunny Sunday morning in Montreal… what to do, what to do? You go to Tam Tams of course. Each Sunday musicians, artists, university students, hippies, tourists, families, anglophones, and francophones fill Jean Mance Park in Mont-Royal to take part in what could be called a huge, dance, party picnic. If you have a drum feel free to join in. Everyone is encouraged to dance. Tam Tams is about participation and celebration; everyone is welcome.
While many dance around the angel, many others bring blankets and food and enjoy a day of lounging around in the sun, while listening to the drum beats. If you don’t have a drum you can buy one from the street vendors that are stationed along Avenue du Parc. There is an array of scarfs, shirts, wood-carved figurines, and much more merchandise you can’t resist from buying even though it has no purpose, such as dream catchers, a jumping frog, or a finger trap.
Some say the origins of this tradition are unknown, although trusty Wikipedia states that Tam Tams started in the late 70s after a workshop on African drumming at a jazz bar. The city of Montreal did not organize this spontaneous gathering, however they have become involved because of its extreme popularity. They provide first aid and permits for streer vendors.
Pounding on a bunch of drums all day may seem tedious to an outsider, but participants and viewers are hooked. Tam Tams really captures the spirit of Montreal, a city that prides itself on its creativity, art, and expression.
Image via: Gregoire Lannoy (en vacance)
Tam Tams takes place in the summer months and will be finishing soon. The city of Montreal makes the schedule from May to September. Although the schedule doesn’t keep away everyone. You will find hard core tam tam fans still drumming well into autumn.
Image via: Aschaf
Probably the most peculiar and oddly enjoyable show to watch during Tam Tams is the mock medieval battle. People come out dressed up in their best medieval garb and they fight with foam swords and shields. I admit I thought it was crazy at first but who hasn’t wanted to pick up a foam sword and Brutus someone from behind? Ok maybe not everyone, but I really liked Medieval Times as a child.
Image via: Jean-Baptiste Duthu
by Elena on August 25, 2009
Most rooftop bars are impressive because they have the city as their backdrop. If they offer cocktails, a relaxed and chic atmosphere, people will be drawn to the establishment. While walking around downtown Montreal near the famous Crescent Street, my friend and I were looking for a new place to grab a beer or glass of wine. We passed by Hotel De La Montagne and the doorman suggested that we try their rooftop bar. We never heard of the place but otherwise obliged, since we didn’t have any other plans for the evening.
La Terrasse Magnetique, quickly became one of my favorite places to go for cinq a sept. Cinq a sept, 5-7, is happy hour in Montreal. La Terrasse is the rooftop bar of Hotel De La Montagne, where drinks are fairly priced, the ambiance is relaxed, and there is a pool, although I’ve never seen anyone actually go inside it. The crowd is around mid twenties and up, which is a welcome change from the many bars and clubs near Crescent street that are sometimes packed with people taking advantage of 18 year old legal drinking age of Montreal.
You can see Crescent Street from the terrace.
Inside the lobby of the hotel there is another bar that will make you feel like you entered a 1950’s cabaret in Paris, where women wear plumed hats and the men have slick mustaches plastered to their faces. La Cabaret caters to an older crowd, or the occasional business person and client, and it often has a pianist and the occasional live performance.
Another popular restaurant and club that provides beautiful views of Montreal is Altitude 737. It is a restaurant and bar that later opens as a nightclub. Word on the street is that the food is overpriced and underwhelming, a combination I’d rather avoid, so I opted not to pay the hefty price tag. Again the major appeal is the view, and like other sky high restaurants, you will pay for the ambiance. I did however go to the nightclub and again I wasn’t too impressed with the club itself, but the view is beautiful at night. If you decide to go, be prepared to pay an entrance fee.
by Elena on August 20, 2009
While walking on Ave. Mont Royal, we stumbled across a small bakery called Point G. After a few minutes and some nudging from a friend of mine, I realized that Point G is in fact the term for G spot in French. Oh those clever Quebecers. Quite an interesting spin on marketing if you ask me. A couple blocks away, there is a restaurant called Au Chaud Lapin, which is a French expression for being well, hot and bothered. I sense a theme brewing on this street.
chaud lapin – someone consumed in sexual pleasures.
Sexual innuendo aside, Point G deserves a taste. It is located in the heart of the trendy Plateau section of Montreal, amongst many other bakeries; however what sets this one apart is their colorful macarons. It has been a year since this little macaron boutique opened in Montreal, which explains why I didn’t know about it last year.
The French macaron trend has been gaining a lot of popularity, with tiny shops popping up in many big cities. This colorful macaron is different than the coconut macaroon you may have had before, although both are made with egg whites and almond paste.
We tried the caramel et fleur de sel (caramel with a bit of salt), pina colada, and coquelicot (a red flower similar to a poppy). They were all very interesting, especially the fleur de sel which had a combination of sweet and savory. I would say you must try the coquelicot because it is most unlike any typical dessert flavor. Their blog has a full list of flavors. All were yummy and inspire me to try baking these treats, however I have a feeling it won’t be easy.
For more Montreal treats.
by Elena on August 18, 2009
Upon my return to Montreal the lines of gray and black, identical bicycles got my attention right away. They were not there last year. What I learned is that Montreal has implemented a bike sharing program with the company BIXI. Now residents and visitors have the option to rent these bikes for either $78 a year, $28 a month, or $5 a day. If you choose to pay by the hour it’s $1.50 per half hour, the first half hour free. Part bike and part taxi, hence the name BIXI, not only is the company health conscious but also earth conscious. BIXI uses solar panel docking stations and provides people with an easy medium of transportation. There are about 3,000 bikes at 300 bike stations around Montreal. Supporters of this program are also happy the BIXI is a Montreal company, hence creating more jobs for its residents.
Boston and London are said to have signed on for the project as well. Boston has been pushing for more bike paths. In recent years bike paths have sprung up around NYC. What about a bike sharing program for NYC? and more.
by Elena on August 17, 2009
by Elena on August 17, 2009
Cultural legend says that poutine was invented after a customer suggested putting cheese curd on his fries. The owner obliged to the request and responded with some snark saying, ça va faire une maudite poutine, “it will make a damn mess.” If you’ve seen poutine you know what he’s talking about. Poutine is a damn mess, an indulgent mess that makes you feel somewhat guilty enjoying the chaos, however if you are a fan of comfort food trust me you will enjoy.
Poutine is a fairly easy concept.
- First you fry some potatoes.
- Top the fries with cheese curd.
- Cover with gravy.
Before you turn away in fear and dismay you must keep an open mind for this national food. Poutine is the perfect dish after a night of heavy drinking, especially in a city like Montreal known for its blistering winters. No doubt the heavy goodness will keep you warm and most likely completely full for days after eating. Poutine is the perfect complement for a Jersey girl who is accustomed to frequenting NJ diners, although I have never had the courage to order the “disco fries” that don many diner menus. So in Montreal I embarked on the greasy, artery clogging journey into the world of cheese covered fries.
La Banquise is a Montreal staple and any true Quebecer will tell you to eat here at least once. When I first arrived in Montreal a year ago I was told to try one of the many poutine dishes at the local resto and to my shame I never did, therefore this trip I was determined to do so. First off, anyone hoping for a light meal at La Banquise will be utterly disappointed, so don’t even bother entering its doors if you plan on ordering something like a salad. Psh and why would you? What with the delicious, damn mess that awaits you.
La Banquise will have at least 25 different poutines at a given time, a promise ensured on the menu. The various poutine dishes stray from the classic poutine recipe. After offering an Italian poutine years ago to much appraisal, La Banquise decided to play around with the menu and make more adjustments. Since then customers are able to enjoy such dishes as the Poutine Kamikaze, Poutine Mexicaine, Poutine Pizza, Poutine Vege, and Poutine Obelix, concoctions that include pepperoni, sausage, veggies, and chicken along with the traditional ingredients.
Below is the Poutine Pizza which I ordered. The Poutine Pizza has pepperoni, green peppers, and mushrooms along with the traditional ingredients. It is strange that these ingredients do resemble the taste of pizza, although I’ve never had my pizza covered in gravy before.
A friend ordered the Poutine Ole Ole which I must say was one of my favorites. On top of your fries you will have the cheese curd, meat sauce, hot peppers, and Tabasco. Mmm bring on that heartburn.
The French Don’t Smile
by Elena on September 1, 2009
The French don’t smile.
Americans do!
I’ve been reminiscing a lot lately. Must have something to do with my up and coming birthday. Impending birthdays always seem to make me a little nostalgic. Perhaps I’m longing for my love affair with Montreal (when am I not?) and the carefree days of little responsibility, besides my worries on how to order my crème brûlée in French. Je vais prendre une crème brûlée s’il vous plaît.
In Montreal we had a group that we liked to call Le Bande de Boudoir, created after an eventful cinq a sept at Boudoir Cafe, and perhaps too much Quebecois beer. Since we were all learning English, French or Spanish, and we came from all over the world, it made for some interesting conversation and miscommunication. There were no reservations here, every stereotype on the table. Are all the French snotty and uptight? Of course not, but we sure as hell would harp on it, just as much as we’d emphasize how loud and obnoxious us Americans are. Is it true? Not really, but it makes for more interesting bar talk. It was the the ‘if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em’ philosophy, and it seemed to work. After spending so much time trying to deter assumptions and stereotypes, there comes a point where you can only welcome them.
Possibly one of my favorite pictures of all time. Check out our friend ‘the bartender’ in the background. Somehow he made it into quite a bit of our pictures.
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