During the week Cusco is a completely different city than on the weekend where you will find mostly tourists roaming the streets looking for alpaca duds and pisco sours. What used to be bare streets were now packed with Peruvians following their daily routine of going to work, waiting for the bus, walking their kids to school, or snatching a part of the sidewalk where they will sell some food or handicrafts to strolling pedestrians. It was a nice change to not only be surrounded by tourists like myself, but rather a group of people who live in this city. They aren’t stopping at every corner to bask at the sites, but rather they pass by the Plaza de Armas giving a cursory glance of recognition. After all they see it everyday. By being around locals you may perhaps be given a glimpse of how people really live their lives; if you’re lucky.
Shoe shiners in Cusco
People waiting for the bus
Cusco is small and easy to manage, especially if you compare it to the capital Lima. The Plaza de Armas is the most distinctive image of Cusco city. Most travel paraphernalia plasters pictures of the plaza and the cathedral througout many of its pages. My second day in Cusco I was considerably less winded from the lack of oxygen in the air and made use of some time to myself to stroll the Plaza and sit at the steps of the Cathedral. My visit thus far had been filled with colonial influenced buildings and Catholic tradition. The Plaza de Armas was no different, however I knew that in a few days I would be looking out at a completely different marvel, one that had nothing to do with colonial influence. Machu Picchu, the lost civilization, would not have domed bell towers, ornate balconies, or elaborate Gothic paintings of the Resurrection. There would be no carved crosses or images of the Virgin Mary. Both cultures so different yet an indelible part of Peruvian culture.
Below is a map of the main sites in Cusco as well as some photos of what you should be looking for.
The typical tourist route in Peru is to head to Cusco after visiting Lima. Since we only had a little over a week in Peru we decided to do just that. We would spend a few days adjusting to the altitude, as well as enjoying the city. Every guidebook suggests staying a few days in Cusco before doing the trails to Machu Picchu. Please take there warnings seriously. I had an interesting bout of altitude sickness on the trail (more about that later).
Our flight to Cusco was delayed because of a dense fog that descended upon Lima. From what I know about Lima, and what I experienced on most days, is that it is common in the winter for Lima to be covered in fog, especially the closer you get to the water. As usual I’m not exactly looking forward to the flight and a delay just makes the anxiety of waiting that much worse. One of my friends caught me taking a quick nap at the airport.
The flight into Cusco was beautiful. Since Cusco is in the midst of a bunch of mountain ranges, on our descent we passed a few snow capped mountain.
We saw a bunch of advertisements in the airport for oxishot, basically oxygen in a bottle. There was also an oxishot vendor on premises. We decided against buying the oxygen, thinking it was unnecessary, probably a little presumptuous of us. Actually in Cusco it pretty much was unnecessary, since we all didn’t feel too many symptoms from the altitude, however on the Lares Trail I would have been a lot happier if I had one of these bad boys.
Finally it was time to leave Lima and frankly I was a little sad. There is never enough time to see a whole city, however only a few days seemed like bad planning.
But alas we had to depart, so we hailed a cab and made our way to the airport, in order to catch our flight to Cusco. This taxi was the most high tech taxi we had seen in all of Lima. Whereas most cabs were old and shabby looking, this driver looked like he was trying out for MTV’s Pimp My Taxi.
This innovative driver had a television screen with a connecting dvd player in his car. Don’t overestimate however, it was nothing like the touchscreens now seen in NYC cabs, where you can play around in the back seat, although it did make for some interesting entertainment. The best part of the car was the telephone the driver pulled out from somewhere in the front seat. It wasn’t a car phone no no, (that would be too obvious), it wasn’t a cell phone (again obvious), but rather a land line telephone that he somehow got to work inside the cab. He explained it to us but I’m not one for technology chats.
He had DVDs for us to choose from, most of them music DVDs. He suggested we choose traditional Peruvian music, music he called huayno. Little did we know that this would be our first taste of the music we would soon be hearing all over. Huayno is very distinguishable and especially for those hearing it for the first time, it is most definitely an acquired taste. The vocals are extremely high pitched and accompanied by flute, harp, panpipe, guitar, charango, and mandolin. Below is a song by Stalim Manrique.
Huayno is very popular in Andean culture. You can hear it in the mountains of Peru, often transmitted by radio, since many of the people living there do not have televisions. The music may seem a little strange to travelers when they hear it, since the sound is very unique. After all the singing is high pitched and can seem a little off key, but the tradition has lasted for a very long time, since pre-Hispanic Peru. No doubt there is lots of emotion, often about love, love lost, unrequited love, you get the idea. One of the songs I heard in the cab was about a man whose lover drove him so crazy he resorted to alcohol. The lyrics were funny and although I don’t remember them exactly they were something like “I love you so much that I must drink.” I understand the sentiment but for me it usually involves Ben & Jerry’s rather than Johnnie Walker.
In huayno, often times you will hear people in the background, children speaking, or people cheering the singer on.
“Que sigue bailando” Keep dancing.
“Ay mi corazoncito” Oh my heart.
I admit I don’t listen to huayno much in the privacy of my own home, but take a look for yourself and experience the music from a very rich culture.
For my first night in Lima I stayed at Inka Lounge Hostel in Miraflores. The hostel arranged for someone to pick me up at the airport for $15, which is a very reasonable price for the 30 minute cab ride from the airport to Miraflores. In Lima it is customary to negotiate the price of the cab ride before you enter, since there are no meters in the cabs. Do not forget to handle that beforehand if you want to avoid headaches later on. My driver was holding up a sign with my name on it amongst what seemed like hundreds of people waiting in the crowd for their prospective customers. He was very friendly and chatty, especially with all his swine flu questions. Suddenly I was an authority on the matter because of my American passport (note to self – start using the Spanish one).
When we arrived, I was tired and frankly a bit delirious from the flight. I didn’t have any soles to give the cab driver a tip, but later I felt less guilty when I found out that taxi drivers in Peru don’t expect tips. Although my cab driver seemed a bit hesitant to say goodbye, so I’m assuming many Americans give tips anyhow. When I arrived there was a group of people sitting in the common area of the hostel watching a movie. If I wasn’t so very much looking forward to the feeling of my face hitting something resembling a mattress I would have tried to meet some new people, but I decided to check in as quick as possible and make my way to my room. Clearly sleep trumps socializing when fighting the effects of a sleeping pill.
The guy at the front desk Edgar was extremely helpful, and if I do say so myself, rather good looking. Still the sleeping pill won over the urge to keep talking to a handsome stranger. When I got to my room it was clean and had two beds. Finally the moment I’ve been waiting for.
The Inka Lounge Hostel is located in Miraflores. As hostels are concerned it is pretty standard although I would recommend it to anyone. I stayed in the single room and it was quiet and comfortable and cheap, a perfect combination after a long flight.
Miraflores was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Lima, primarily because of the vibrant colors of the buildings. Part of my travel experience is wandering around streets and neighborhoods and Miraflores makes it easy to appreciate. The flâneur will feel at home walking the quiet residential streets as well as the busy squares and center.
Lima proved to be a great city to start off my South America tour. I felt comfortable walking around on my own (during the day) and with friends at night. Miraflores is a safe neighborhood in Lima, therefore you should be cautious and avoid other neighborhoods at night (and even during the day). At my hostel one of the employees highlighted on a map which area I should avoid. You can ask your hostel or hotel to do the same. Below are some pictures of the Miraflores neighborhood.
One of the popular places to go out in Lima is Larcomar. Larcomar is a small mall in the Miraflores neighborhood. It is nice because it is right on the cliff overlooking the ocean. At night you can hardly see the water, but you can smell the salt in the air and feel the breeze that blows in from the ocean. It´s nice to step outside for a breath of fresh air, especially because some of the clubs allow smoking. I was a bit surprised to see this restaurant in Lima. Apparently Hooters translates into Spanish. Fountain at Larcomar. Larcomar at night. Mama Batata is one of the bar/clubs in Larcomar. The sign suggests the bar is open from 8pm until whenever you choose to leave, however don´t let it fool you. The bars in Lima close around 4am. There were a bunch of baskets hanging from the ceiling. Don´t know why but it made for an interesting atmosphere. There were much more tourists here than other bars we had gone too, however there is also a local crowd. Don´t believe the sign. The beer is not free! For more information about the restaurants, clubs, and stores at Larcomar you can check out the Larcomar Website.
It took us about half an hour to get to Central Lima from Miraflores. Lima is a lot bigger than I had anticipated. In fact it is the 5th largest city in Latin America, behind Mexico City, Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, and Rio de Janeiro.
Plaza de Armas
Around the Plaza de Armas, many of the colonial buildings are still standing, however earthquakes in 1687 and 1746 left many buildings damaged.
Decorative balconies are a feature of the colonial legacy of Lima. Around the city, in particular the city center, you will notice these ostentatious balconies.
There were lots of school groups in Central Lima. All of them were wearing some sort of uniform. Must say I´m glad my Catholic school days are over.
One of the most interesting sites we saw in Central Lima were the catacombs in the Museo del Convento de San Francisco. You aren´t supposed to take pictures inside the catacombs, but I tried my bestto provide one. As you can see by the quality of the photo I didn´t do such a great job. I was scared of the tour guide! Not to mention all the possible curses from the skeletons buried in there. Definitely not taking any chances.
Just outside the catacombs there was a group of kids were playing a game. Basically they surrounded one another in a circle and two people were in the middle. One of the kids struggles to take a cloth from the other kids while everyone else cheers on. Then if they end up getting the cloth another contender comes into the circle to compete.
Plaza San Martin
When you look around the Plaza San Martin, it seems almost as if you are in Europe. The buildings have a French style and lack the color of other plazas in Lima.
The Gran Hotel Bolivar is the oldest hotel in all of Lima. Today it certainly doesn´t have the splendor of its past, however it is typical to get a pisco sour within the hotel or tea. As soon as we entered we were offered pisco sours by a couple of hotel employees, however their upfrontness turned us off and we decided to get our piscos somewhere else.
Peruvian food is famous throughout the world, and if you go to Lima you will see why. It is one of the most diverse cuisines and has currently become a popular cuisine to study by top chefs. Since Peru has such a diverse culture and multicultural background that includes, pre-Inca, Spanish, French, and Japanese to name a few, the food combines a variety of flavors. Not to mention the homegrown local ingredients that make the cuisine very unique. One of the highlights of my trip has been the soups we have eaten, where even a typically boring chicken soup (which they call diet soup) is just so good.
It seems like no matter where you go in Lima the ceviche is incredible. We ate some ceviche at a small restaurant in downtown Lima. The fish is fresh, as it should be considering how close you are to the ocean. If you look closely at the picture above you can see some Peruvian corn, or as I like to affectionately call it ´giant´corn. It is much larger than I´ve ever seen and has a softer texture.
The Pisco Sour is Peru´s national drink. It is pretty yummy, and made from Pisco, brandy made from grapes. Our bartender made a few Pisco Sour for us and showed us the process on how to make one.
Recipe:
3 parts Peruvian Pisco
1 part lime juice
1 part sugar syrup (jarabe de goma)
1 egg white
a drop of Angostura bitter
Astrid y Gastón is a popular restaurant in Lima and always written about in the guidebooks, however I can assure you that the food is incredible. Seriously I want the chef Gastón Acurio to be a part of my family so I can have his dishes whenever my little heart desires. He was born in Lima and has helped make Peruvian food a popular cuisine around the world, not to mention make little tourists such as myself smile with glee.
Of course we had to try the ceviche at Astrid y Gaston´s and so far it has been the best I have ever tasted. We tried the ´travieso´ceviche which was a mix of the catch of the day. I cannot reiterate how goooood the ceviche tasted.
El Parque del Amor (Love Park) is along the Malecon. Guidebooks lead you to believe that the colorful ceramic, design is very similar to Park Guell in Barcelona, and it is, but on a much smaller scale. Couples sit on the walls as if no one is watching them. It´s a little voyeuristic. My gringa sensibilities make me a little uncomfortable to show that emotion in front of a bunch of picture taking tourists, but these guys seem to ok with displaying their amor in public.On Valentine´s Day people go to the park and compete in a contest for the longest kiss. Not really sure what the winners get as a prize, but you can use your imagination.
There are quotes written into the walls of the murals.
Mi sangre esta alcanzando a las estrellas (My blood is reaching the stars) – Jose Maria Arguedas
Some othe quotes found in the park:
Te desvisto como quien pela una fruta
(I undress you like someone peels a piece of fruit)- Jorge Diaz Herrera
A ti como la luz del mundo a las ventanas
(To you like the light of the world in the windows)- Juan Gonzalo Rose
Somos un poco la sombra de lo que fuimos
(We are a bit like the shade of what we used to be)- Oscar Valdivia
In the center of the park is a statue of a couple fully embracing, seemingly pre-coital. It stirred up some contreversy since Peru is a fairly conservative country. The creator of the stautue is Peruvian artist Victor Delfin.Someone wrote this quote on the ledge of the wall along the Malecon.
(The views of a lighthouse are distant. Just like love, it seems far to never return).
There were lots of school groups in Central Lima. All of them were wearing some sort of uniform. Must say I´m glad my Catholic school days are over.
Just outside the catacombs there was a group of kids were playing a game. Basically they surrounded one another in a circle and two people were in the middle. One of the kids struggles to take a cloth from the other kids while everyone else cheers on. Then if they end up getting the cloth another contender comes into the circle to compete.
Plaza San Martin
The Gran Hotel Bolivar is the oldest hotel in all of Lima. Today it certainly doesn´t have the splendor of its past, however it is typical to get a pisco sour within the hotel or tea. As soon as we entered we were offered pisco sours by a couple of hotel employees, however their upfrontness turned us off and we decided to get our piscos somewhere else.
El Parque del Amor (Love Park) is along the Malecon. Guidebooks lead you to believe that the colorful ceramic, design is very similar to Park Guell in Barcelona, and it is, but on a much smaller scale. Couples sit on the walls as if no one is watching them. It´s a little voyeuristic. My gringa sensibilities make me a little uncomfortable to show that emotion in front of a bunch of picture taking tourists, but these guys seem to ok with displaying their amor in public.
On Valentine´s Day people go to the park and compete in a contest for the longest kiss. Not really sure what the winners get as a prize, but you can use your imagination.
In the center of the park is a statue of a couple fully embracing, seemingly pre-coital. It stirred up some contreversy since Peru is a fairly conservative country. The creator of the stautue is Peruvian artist Victor Delfin.
Someone wrote this quote on the ledge of the wall along the Malecon.
