by Elena on October 28, 2009
Before the foggy mist descended upon us and we fell asleep to the background music of Huayno, we stopped to set up camp near a house where some children were playing in the backyard. They were shy at first, hiding behind a rock wall, and only popping over when they wanted us to play with them. One thing you notice right away while talking to the children is the burgundy color of their cheeks caused by the harsh winds of the mountains. Their skin is tough and bruised. At night the temperature dip really low and remain the same in the mornings before the sun could rise above the mountains. All the children have to walk to school, through the rocky terrain, a task that was so difficult for us, yet effortless for them, as they ran while talking and laughing.
We encountered lots of other people on the trail. Our guide cautioned us on giving the children food, in particular candies which they frequently asked for. There are not many available dentists and many of the kids have teeth that are rotting and falling out. Try saying no to a bunch of wide-eyed children asking for something as small as a piece of candy. It’s not easy. I asked the kids what their names were and they surprised me with English names like Nelly and Roy here. Our guide explained that many of the Quechua people started to name their kids after celebrities and popular Anglo names. Nelly Furtado maybe?
While the Quechua people do not wear wedding rings there is a way to distinguish who is married and who is single. Men traditionally wear a hat with multicolored pieces of fabric hanging off the sides. If the fabric is hanging on both sides of the hat it means they are married. Their single counterparts have the pieces tied up in the back. In the picture below you can see the bright colored hats. These clothes made it easy to spot another person walking along the isolated trails. The impressing part is that the dye and make the clothes themselves, using the various plants and wildlife found around their homes.
Image via: quinet.
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by Elena on October 27, 2009
Many people remember the experience of trekking to Machu Picchu as a mystical encounter, a way of getting in touch with yourself and taking in the energy of the mountains. Not being completely in tune with nature myself, I wasn’t sure what to expect. What I did know was that this trek was something I had to experience, a check off my proverbial list of things to do before I die.
We chose the Lares Trail, mainly because the more popular Inca Trail was sold out. If you want to reserve tickets for the Inca Trail you must do so way in advance. There are restrictions that only allow 500 trekkers per day, including guides and trekking staff, therefore it is harder to reserve a spot. The Lares Trail on the other hand, has less people walking around on any given day. It gives a somewhat more private feel to your tour. It is very rare that we passed another group on our trek. It literally felt like we were the only people trekking about. Another draw of the Lares Trail, one that many of the tourist agencies emphasize, is the fact that this trail takes you through the rural communities. It is the ‘off the beaten track’ trek so to speak, that allows you to have a bit of contact with the Quechua people.
Day 1
Your guides will pick you up very early so make sure to get a good night’s rest. We visited the town of Calca, a small town on the way to Lares Village. The drive through the Sacred Valley to the village takes about 3 hours from Cusco. The first stop was to the hot springs, which were essentially small man-made pools of hot water. After we dried off we drove to the beginning of the trail in and had lunch. Afterward we started the 2 1/2 hour trek to our campsite. Here is where we met a few campesinos and the most adorable children playing around in their backyard.
Day 2
This is the longest day of the trail. It was an approximate 7 hour hike to Cancha Cancha. We ended up staying at a closer campsite because our group got altitude sickness and was weary from the hours of walking. The highest point of the trek is Pachacutec Pass at 4,450 m (roughly 14,600 feet). At this point you will see the snow capped mountains up close and personal, and will most likely feel the harshest effect of altitude sickness.
Day 3
This a welcomed day of walking downhill. With each hour the effects of altitude sickness started to wear off almost instantly. The walk will take around 5 hours (longer if you are suffering sickness like we were). The trail ends at the village of Huaran where we stopped to eat lunch. Then we took a van to Ollantaytambo, where we had to catch a train to Aguas Calientes. We spent the night in Aguas Calientes at a hotel. The biggest difference between the Lares Trail and the Inca is that the Lares Trail doesn’t end up directly at Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is the only trail that actually ends at Machu Picchu. That is the one negative factor about Lares. The high of hiking and conquering the altitude is somewhat diminished after staying a night in a hotel room.
Day 4
Machu Picchu! Wake up early. The first bus up to Machu Picchu leaves before dawn. We lined up at 5am to make sure that we were first online. It may be a sacrifice to wake up at such a early hour, but it is worth it to arrive before all the crowds. Although even at 5am there will be a line forming and much more people following after.
More helpful tips:
The high season for all trails is from June to August. If you want to travel at these times you must book in advance. The rainy season is from November to March. Keep in mind that the climate in the Machu Picchu area is warm during the day and cold at night. The rainy season is the coldest and the ground will be wet. One good point of visiting during rainy season is that there will be less crowds and the clouds that give Machu Picchu and the surrounding area the mystic quality will be prevalent.
Altitude sickness afflicts many travelers who aren’t used to the heights. While being physically fit may not completely protect you from the effects of altitude sickness, it is important to be certain that you are able to do what is physically required of you. You will be hiking for many hours for a couple of days. The Salkantay Trail is said to be one of the most difficult because of the constant ascending and descending in the mountains.
Lares Trail Photo Gallery
by Elena on October 20, 2009
The day before we started our trek to Machu Picchu we met with our tour guide for a quick question and answer session. Our excitement slowly turned to a subtle anxiety with each carefree joke he made about the dangers of such a hike. He smiled as he told us he was sick, while swishing around a power drink, Peruvian Gatorade so to speak, in his left hand. With each sway of the bottle my stomach turned, an inevitable foreshadowing of what was to come. Still he assured us that we will be fine, leaving us awkwardly laughing and bewildered by his dark humor and self deprecating demeanor. Is he serious? Wait so my brain can hemorrhage if I don’t drink enough water? How is this funny again?
The bit of anxiety was probably for the better because before that moment I was feeling a false sense of security. Pshh we’ll be fine. High altitude sickness is for pansies. It’s different when heeding the advice of an expert versus reading a guidebook. Suddenly your inflated sense of self subsides and the reality of the situation (hiking for days at high altitude) starts to sink in.
After instilling a tiny bit of fear, our guide gave us some advice on what we need to bring for the trip. I created a list of his suggestions, combined with some things I felt were useful for me on the trek.
Water is very important. In order to prevent altitude sickness, you must keep hydrated, sipping water every 15 minutes or so when you are feeling sick. On organized trips such as ours, water is provided. Don’t worry they boil it in order to prevent sickness. I would suggest you avoid drinking from any stream you find along the trail. It looks tempting, however our guide told us a story about a group of his who decided to take a shower in a stream a long the way, and they all ended up stranded in the mountains, fighting off various sicknesses. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather stay dirty.
Flashlights and headlights are very useful for rummaging around at night. A headlight may seem weird, but when you are looking for something in the middle of the night in freezing weather, you won’t care how ridiculous you look. You can tie up a flashlight in your tent in order to make it easier for moving around. It isn’t completely pitch black outside, however, we were able to benefit from the clear skies and light of the moon.
Toilet paper is your friend. I do not need to emphasize that there is no bathrooms or running water along the way. You will be 3 days in the great outdoors. Bring that paper.
Disposable plastic bags are necessary in order to store things in them. I didn’t think I would need them, but they ended up being useful. Also keep in mind that you can’t just throw away your garbage on the trail. You have to carry everything with you, or give your trash to the guides on the trip with you. Bags make everything easier.
Sunscreen is necessary if you don’t want to get burned from walking in direct sunlight for hours. A hat will also help.
Sleeping bags are provided for an extra cost. Rent the bags. Who wants to be lugging around sleeping bags.
Sleeping bag sacks or liners are great because they keep you extra warm and they also shield you from directly touching the sleeping bags you rent. I suggest getting a silk liner because the threading is much more tight, and harder for bed bugs to get into. Cotton is cheaper, but more things can pass through.
Snacks, especially chocolate, give you energy and prevent altitude sickness. If you start to feel light headed you should have some sort of sugar. Our guide gave us lemon drops whenever we started to feel sick.
You will need to carry a daypack with you. The mules and other guides will be carrying your regular bags and backpacks (there is a weight limit) and they will speed ahead of you. Everything you need easy access to (medicine, camera) should be in your daypack. Don’t make it too heavy because you have to carry it.
Travel towel in order to clean your face and wash up. There are many different kinds of towels that are made to dry quickly.
Warm clothes and jacket will probably be one of the most important things to bring. Because of the high altitude the temperatures can drop significantly. If you travel during the rainy season it will also be colder. A warm hiking jacket will be the best for you.
