From the category archives:

Travel Guide

Preparation For The Trek To Machu Picchu

by Elena on October 20, 2009

The day before we started our trek to Machu Picchu we met with our tour guide for a quick question and answer session. Our excitement slowly turned to a subtle anxiety with each carefree joke he made about the dangers of such a hike. He smiled as he told us he was sick, while swishing around a power drink, Peruvian Gatorade so to speak, in his left hand. With each sway of the bottle my stomach turned, an inevitable foreshadowing of what was to come. Still he assured us that we will be fine, leaving us awkwardly laughing and bewildered by his dark humor and self deprecating demeanor. Is he serious? Wait so my brain can hemorrhage if I don’t drink enough water? How is this funny again?

The bit of anxiety was probably for the better because before that moment I was feeling a false sense of security. Pshh we’ll be fine. High altitude sickness is for pansies. It’s different when heeding the advice of an expert versus reading a guidebook. Suddenly your inflated sense of self subsides and the reality of the situation (hiking for days at high altitude) starts to sink in.

Machu Picchu

After instilling a tiny bit of fear, our guide gave us some advice on what we need to bring for the trip. I created a list of his suggestions, combined with some things I felt were useful for me on the trek.

Water is very important. In order to prevent altitude sickness, you must keep hydrated, sipping water every 15 minutes or so when you are feeling sick. On organized trips such as ours, water is provided. Don’t worry they boil it in order to prevent sickness. I would suggest you avoid drinking from any stream you find along the trail. It looks tempting, however our guide told us a story about a group of his who decided to take a shower in a stream a long the way, and they all ended up stranded in the mountains, fighting off various sicknesses. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather stay dirty.

Flashlights and headlights are very useful for rummaging around at night. A headlight may seem weird, but when you are looking for something in the middle of the night in freezing weather, you won’t care how ridiculous you look. You can tie up a flashlight in your tent in order to make it easier for moving around. It isn’t completely pitch black outside, however, we were able to benefit from the clear skies and light of the moon.

Toilet paper is your friend. I do not need to emphasize that there is no bathrooms or running water along the way. You will be 3 days in the great outdoors. Bring that paper.

Disposable plastic bags are necessary in order to store things in them. I didn’t think I would need them, but they ended up being useful. Also keep in mind that you can’t just throw away your garbage on the trail. You have to carry everything with you, or give your trash to the guides on the trip with you. Bags make everything easier.

Sunscreen is necessary if you don’t want to get burned from walking in direct sunlight for hours. A hat will also help.

Sleeping bags are provided for an extra cost. Rent the bags. Who wants to be lugging around sleeping bags.

Sleeping bag sacks or liners are great because they keep you extra warm and they also shield you from directly touching the sleeping bags you rent. I suggest getting a silk liner because the threading is much more tight, and harder for bed bugs to get into. Cotton is cheaper, but more things can pass through.

Snacks, especially chocolate, give you energy and prevent altitude sickness. If you start to feel light headed you should have some sort of sugar. Our guide gave us lemon drops whenever we started to feel sick.

You will need to carry a daypack with you. The mules and other guides will be carrying your regular bags and backpacks (there is a weight limit) and they will speed ahead of you. Everything you need easy access to (medicine, camera) should be in your daypack. Don’t make it too heavy because you have to carry it.

Travel towel in order to clean your face and wash up. There are many different kinds of towels that are made to dry quickly.

Warm clothes and jacket will probably be one of the most important things to bring. Because of the high altitude the temperatures can drop significantly. If you travel during the rainy season it will also be colder. A warm hiking jacket will be the best for you.

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The Legend of Sleepy Hollow

by Elena on October 15, 2009

Legend tells the story of Ichabod Crane, a scrawny school teacher from Sleepy Hollow who takes a fateful ride into the forest and confronts the ghost of the Headless Horsemen. This story, penned by Washington Irving in “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow,” insinuates that the Headless Horseman was not really a crazed ghost or killer, but rather a fellow townsman looking to prey upon Ichabod’s superstitious nature. In his movie, Tim Burton makes Sleepy Hollow the setting for a string of murders, and Ichabod the beautiful Johnny Depp, a slight (but welcomed) character change from the original story. The misty haze and brushwood in the film, however, is not far from the truth of the surrounding woods of Sleepy Hollow Village, on a cold, autumn day.

Sleepy Hollow

Sleepy Hollow Village is more than a legend, in fact it is a small part of Tarrytown NY, just 40 minutes north of New York City. The village itself is pretty customary of the surrounding area. The boutique shops, colonial architecture, and overall greenery contribute to the small town air. The village officially changed its name to Sleepy Hollow in 1996, in order to commemorate Washington Irving’s story, and no doubt take advantage of the tourist draw, especially this time of year before Halloween.

The town recreates the legend at Philipsburg Manor, where people dressed up as ghosts and ghouls will great you as you tour the grounds. There is even a Headless Horseman riding around with his pumpkin head. The reenactment is fun, but it is not exactly the place for thrill seekers looking to be scared this Halloween, although getting lost in the surrounding small towns and dark forests was not a pleasant experience. For someone like me, who loves fall and all of its components (apple cider, pumpkin spice, apple picking) it is a fun trip. Nearby there is a pumpkin art installation (yes you read correctly) called the Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze. It is much more secluded and creepy than the reenactment at Sleepy Hollow. There are what seems like thousands of carved pumpkins and figures spread out another manor. The Historic Hudson Valley has all the details you need for your visit.

The infamous Headless Horseman.

Bad acting at Sleepy Hollow.

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Youth Magnet Cities Per The Wall Street Journal

by Elena on October 1, 2009

The Wall Street Journal has declared the top cities for the Young and Restless. They dutifully noted that less people are moving around, no doubt because of the uncertain economy, but they predict that when things pick up, so will those young and restless souls looking for a new city to call home. These cities have a few similarities, for one they are big urban cities, with plenty of financial opportunities. People aren’t flocking to smaller, less pragmatic towns because of financial constraints, although Portland made the list, so the allure of the bohemian isn’t completely lost.

Washington DC – 1st Place (tie)

New job prospects in government, and an extremely popular president, are very appealing to young urban professionals looking to make a name for themselves. “In the eyes of some people, Barack Obama is America’s coolest boss.” Although the chances of overhearing political jargon during happy hour in D.C. is as high as overhearing financial musings over lunch in New York City, you need not work in politics in order to enjoy living in this town. While politics may rule, there are plenty of other factors that attract the upwardly mobile masses. In neighborhoods such as Adam’s Morgan you will find bookstores, bars, farmer’s markets, restaurants, art galleries, and coffeehouses; a far cry from the expanse of Capitol Hill.

Seattle, WA – First Place (tie)

For someone like me, who has been dying to visit this west coast city, I concur with Seattle’s inclusion on the list, mostly because of my own preconceptions. Seattle seems to be where the innovative (think Starbucks and Amazon) mix with their rugged, nature loving friends. Not to mention the beautiful terrain that lies just outside of the city. Of course there are a few disadvantages, although I won’t over saturate you with my complaints of constant rain and never-ending humidity. Ok and I admit, I also really want to see those flying fish at the Pike Place Fish Market.
Image via: Phil Roman

New York City- Third Place

New York City is an obvious choice for many. The city attracts people from all over the world who have to live in this iconic city. It certainly lives up to the hype. Frankly it boggles my mind how so many young people, working on measly salaries (perhaps an entry-level media job or a waitress gig to pay for school) can afford to live in such an expensive city. I don’t know how, but I do know why. Because they love it. It is that simple. You have to live in New York City to truly understand the charm and madness that collide in these yellow taxi filled streets. There are some who complain about the noise and the frenetic pace, the ones who have told me that, ‘eh NYC just isn’t for me.’ This East coast girl tends to tune them out.

Portland, OR – Fourth Place

Portland is quirky and for lack of better terminology seems to be the ‘trend’ as of late. With good reason of course. There is a deeply rooted artistic scene in Portland that has been attracting artists and free spirits for quite some time. The unemployment rate (11.2%) doesn’t seem to bother these folks. The appeal is that it may be the anti-big city. There isn’t the frantic pace and the preconceived judgments about how much money you make or who you work for. It seems that Portland promotes a more laid back approach to city life, something that Pacific Northwest cities do so well.
Image via: egazelle

Austin, TX – Fifth Place

When people talk about Texas, Austin always gets a lot of praise. Austin has a slightly cooler climate than other cities in the state, as well as a youthful culture. If the neighborhood has good bars, trendy restaurants, galleries, and good coffee, give it some time and the young and hip will soon follow.
Image via: Kafka0622

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Graffiti Photo Journal

by Elena on September 22, 2009

IMGP3147 Graffiti has been around for quite some time, perhaps since the Ancient Greeks and Roman Empire (doesn’t it seem like the Greeks and Romans invented and did just about everything). While some may view graffiti and other forms of art in public space as ‘vandalism,’ it is a valued form of expression for many others. When cities work in conjunction with artists, the art becomes more than a few tags on someone’s wall.

Walking around Montreal, in particular downtown or the Plateau, it is inevitable to pass many murals. The city of Montreal encourages, or at least allows, artists to display their talents outside of art galleries for all to see. Similar to the way the city handles other forms of artistic expression, such as Tam Tams, Montreal does not discriminate.

I’ve heard people describe Montreal as a ‘boho’ city, and for lack of a better description, I’ve used ‘boho’ a few times myself. The modern appropriation of the word bohemian would have us believe that everyone walks around in open sandals, flowy, floral skirts, and with, how shall I say, a lax concern for personal hygiene. Loaded stereotypes aside, historically a bohemian is an artist, and adventurer who strive for their romanticized beliefs, and in this Francophone/ Anglophone city, that spirit lingers.

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NY Times Writes About Asbury Park

by Elena on September 13, 2009

Image via: Matthew Weinstein for NYTimes

Funny enough, the same day that I decided to post my Asbury Park photographs, the New York Times Travel Section publishes an article about the Eclectic Renaissance of Asbury Park. This goes to show that the travel powers that be concur, Asbury is back.

Asbury Park Casino In the casino, this map displays many of the changes that will be taking place on and near the boardwalk.

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Jewel of the Jersey Shore Asbury Park

by Elena on September 11, 2009

Image via: Shorpy
Throughout the 90s and 2000, Asbury Park has seen better days. Once known as the jewel of the Jersey Shore, the famous beach town changed from a popular summer getaway to a forgotten, ghost town, on account of economic hard times, corruption, and the riots of 1970. Still the mystique of Asbury Park has never been forgotten, frozen in time, inspiring Bruce Springsteen to make his album Greetings From Asbury Park, and talk about psychic Madame Marie in 4th of July, Asbury Park (Sandy). Still many more artists keep coming back to play at venues such as the Stone Pony.

The past couple of decades, driving through Asbury Park has garnered a completely different image than the old picture of prosperity (ie the black and white photograph above of women in petticoats and men in full suits). You were more likely to pass buildings with shattered windows, garbage strewn on the street, and bars blocking doorway entrances, rather than the a busy boardwalk full of joggers, shoppers, and out of towners. Asbury Park was crime ridden, run down, and dirty, left to decay after the hard times.

Image via: Keith Meyers/The New York Times
Despite the hardships of the past, each coming year it seems that Asbury is gaining a breathe of fresh air. I visited Asbury this summer and from just two years ago the changes are drastic. You can see from my post of Greetings From Asbury Park that more people are returning to this one time vacation destination. The new restoration projects, as well as the new stores that will be opening on the boardwalk, have some people excited and others groaning. After all, if a bunch of overpriced cafes serving $6 cups of ice coffee start popping up, some worry that Asbury may loose some of its authenticity.

Unfortunately that is what happens when a place starts to become ‘popular’ once again. Suddenly the Starbucks of the world want to put up shop. As for me, I’m torn. The juxtaposition of such old favorites as the Stony Pony and the Wonder Bar, next to the new trendy cafes on the Asbury boardwalk makes for a more interesting, and I hate to say, convenient visit. More than anything, although Asbury may be a ‘diamond in the rough,’ a ‘hidden gem,’ an ‘up and coming destination’ (insert any other trite, travel writing cliche here), now the city is given the opportunity to be what it once was, hopefully without loosing its unusual Jersey Shore town charm.

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Move Over Busker

by Elena on September 9, 2009

Well the rest of my life lay in front of me
I was pedaling down the road
When I saw nell gwynne and her oranges
And I’ll have one of those
She said move over busker, don’t bang your drum
Move over busker, your time will come
-Paul McCartney

After posting about street performers, I perused through my photo collection and picked out some more of my favorite busker photos.

In the southern Spanish city of Granada there is a rich amalgamation of three very different cultures, histories, and religions: Islam, Catholicism, and Judaism. Home to the Moorish palace La Alhambra, Granada has a flavor that sets it apart from the rest of Spain. The Mirador de San Nicolas (lookout point) faces the magnificent Alhambra, and I highly recommend to anyone visiting this small city to go here just before sunset. The lookout is located in the Albayzin, a neighborhood with small winding streets and white-washed houses with colorful gardens. Set upon a hill, the Albayzin is a perfect location to view the old palace.

At Mirador San Nicolas there are always people singing and playing guitar. The group we saw this particular day really epitomized every stereotype I was looking forward to: the raspy voices (most certainly due to years of heavy smoking), the incredible strumming of the Spanish guitar, the rhythmic clapping, and the melodic improvisation of flamenco singing. Those c

ouple of songs, played to accompany the sunset, were enough to send a chill down my spine, and toy with the idea of quitting my day job in order to sit around these hills, smoke cigars, and learn to play flamenco guitar. Flamenco performers near Alhambra
No one else could wear a mullet and a white turtleneck cutoff and still look as badass as this man right here.

One of my favorite things to do in Mexico, or in any place for that matter, is to roam around the local markets. They are full of life and delicious food. I also find that they are a great way to see the people of the city go about their daily routine. I took this picture in Tepotzlan, Mexico around the time of the Day of the Dead. You can see a bushel of marigolds in the foreground of the photograph. These neon orange flowers are prevalent around this time, when people use them to decorate altars and pay homage to those who have passed. Right after I took this shot, the guy in the bright yellow shirt chased me down for a small tip and some friendly flirtation.

Just outside of Vancouver, about an hour or so on bus, you will find Capilano Park, home to the 450 ft long and 240 ft high Capilano Suspension Bridge. When we finished crossing the bridge and exploring the park we noticed a 3 person band getting ready to play. They weren’t buskers in the traditional sense, (look at the name tags) but rather park employees. Nonetheless people gave them tips after they sang some Elvis, Johnny Cash, and other crowd favorites.

Barrio La Boca in Buenos Aires is known for its brightly colored facades, its Italian immigrant population, and a slightly dodgy reputation. If you ignore the obvious tourist traps and souvenir shops, you can almost imagine the immigrants painting the houses bright colors, in order to give life to this rundown part of town. Nowadays it has become somewhat commercial, but you can still enjoy the tango performances at one of the many cafes.

Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is exactly what you picture it to be, tacky, commercial, over the top, and just a bit uncomfortable. My discomfort is mostly due to an overzealous Elvis impersonator who got a little handsy. Nonetheless there is probably no other place you can see Jack Sparrow, Elvis, Zorro, Spiderman, Minnie Mouse, Jessica Rabbit, and even Chucky (you know the maniacal, homicidal plush toy that made you fearful that your toys would come to life in the middle of the night) all in the same place.

Olvera Street in Downtown Los Angeles provides quite the contrast to the massive structures that crowd around the business sector. The performers, street vendors, restaurants, and cafes serve as a taste of Mexican culture a small tribute to a community with such a large population in this city. It is small and unassuming, but I tend to love areas such as these. I really enjoyed the fact that I could get a peeled mango on a stick, a massive dulce de leche stuffed churro, and agua de jamaica at one of the nearby vendors. The headdress of the performer below was amazingly massive, and from what I can tell there are many performances such as this one taking place nearby.

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Buskers Playing in Montreal

by Elena on September 8, 2009

Busker is a British term for street performer, so naturally an American like myself is not as likely to have heard it before, let alone use it in conversation. We use the term street performer, but busker sounds just a wee bit more interesting. Buskers can cover themselves in paint, make balloon animals, perform an instrument, sing at a metro station, juggle, eat fire, flip, dance, sketch you as a cartoon; all of this for a small tip.

In New York City I was used to hearing singers in the subway and watching hip hop dancers perform anywhere from Times Square to the fountain in Washington Square Park. Montreal has a different sort of, shall we say, busker scene. Juggling is very popular in Montreal (I have seen jugglers pretty frequently). Of course there is always a person who dresses up for picture happy tourists, like this guy below who I can only imagine is some sort of silver Aztec king.

Place Jacques-Cartier in Old Montreal always has buskers hanging around looking to keep their audience entertained. Bands like this one make strolling around the city much more entertaining, I believe from one of the many universities in Montreal, that made the weekend afternoon.

This busker is quite the regular. I have seen him perform his fire juggling routine many times; even a year after I left Montreal he was still at it, performing for huge crowds by the Old Port. There are lots of pictures of him on Flickr.

Image via: fabio costello
A lot of enthusiasts perform not for money, but merely for the pleasure of performance, such as during Tam Tams. Montreal is a very creative city, so it is natural that its inhabitants would use the public space to display their talents. Expect lots of street performers at many of Montreal’s festivals.

Image via: Rishi Menon

Image via: icarusfire

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It’s Like Riding a Bicycle…

by Elena on September 2, 2009

“It’s like riding a bicycle,” or so they say about something you never forget how to do. Although I wobbled back and forth on the racing bike, a bit too tall for my 5′2 frame, the seller called me a natural. Of course he’d say that, hoping that a few gentle strokes to my ego would coax me into buying his old bike. I realized the saying is true, I didn’t forget how to ride a bike, but they never said anything about riding it well. The test spin was a success, considering I didn’t fall over, break the thing, or cause any bystanders bodily harm. Nonetheless I left the seller disappointed, realizing that the racing bike with its large thin wheels, was too much for me to handle.

I decided to go smaller, so much smaller that I risked the little kid, bike jabs from my friends. Even so I loved it. My girl’s cruiser bike was perfect for a cycling friendly city like Montreal. After a couple self-affirmations and the support of an equally inexperienced friend, we were able to conquer the streets and avoid incoming traffic.

The incredible talents of Montreal cyclists.

Texting while riding.
Talking on their cell phone while riding.
Listening to their ipods while riding (you get my drift). They can handle technology on a bike.
Talking to one another while cycling side by side. Yeah it seems easy enough, but try it before you judge.
Successfully balancing a large quantity of ’stuff’ in a basket at the front or back of their bike.
Successfully balancing another person on the front or back of their bike.
Riding with no hands (in order to text, scratch their head, show off, etc.).
Riding in the pouring rain. (I’ve done this too! It is actually a lot of fun).
While I have not seen it, people tell me that Montrealers continue to ride their bikes well into wintertime and even during snowstorms.

Novice riders like ourselves slowly learn the tricks of the trade.

My old companion is now being ridden around Montreal by a girl from Argentina. May she treat it well.

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Montreal Summer Festivals

by Elena on August 31, 2009

In the summertime Montreal is alive and full of color. This year I was unfortunately unable to attend the festivals, which makes me very sad; fortunately one of my dear friends and talented photographer Jean-Baptiste Duthu, took these wonderful photos at the various festivals held this year. Now I can pretend I was at the festivals with him.

The International Jazz Festival of Montreal is one of the most popular festivals in Montreal, in fact it is one of the biggest jazz festivals in the world. Hundreds of artists perform and there are over 500 shows, some of which are completely free for the public.

Some of my favorite summer festivals include:

The International Jazz Festival of Montreal
Just For Laughs
Les FrancFolies de Montreal
Fashion and Design Festival
Montreal World Film Festival

It seems like Montreal is always celebrating something, not only in the summertime. For a full list of all the festivals in Montreal that take place all year round click here.

These performers give tribute to the British flag by donning the flag as *cough* undergarments.

The Just For Laughs Festival is probably one of the most fascinating festivals for people who like to stroll and people watch. Walking down St. Denis was one of the highlights of the festival. I admit I’m not a big fan of stand up comedy, although many Quebecois comics are much funnier than the comics I have seen in the past; however, the festival provides more than merely stand up comedy. The streets are lined with performers in costumes whose main purpose is to involve the crowd. If you are nearby you are fair game. It is not uncommon to have a close encounter with a man inside a massive inflatable ball that takes up half the street. Also beware of becoming victim to the Just For Laughs TV show. The parade that marks the close of the festivities is no doubt interesting, if not a little strange. The year I attended a huge mechanical figure of a person (the size of a small building) creepily marched down the avenue.

This picture is my favorite of Jean-Baptiste’s photographs, undoubtedly taken during the Just For Laughs Festival. I love the expression on the performer’s face!