What does it take to be first online to get into the Alhambra? If you avoid the reasonable route of getting your tickets in advance, like other more responsible travelers, then you will have to wait in line, a really really long line.
After a couple days in Seville we made our way to Granada with a vague plan of interest and no guidebooks. The heat of summer in the Spanish south had sucked out all of our energy, and a small part of us had no desire but to sit around drinking freshly squeezed orange juice under one of the makeshift sun blockers in the streets of Seville. Needless to say we were not prepared for our excursion to the Alhambra. We arrived, somewhat brazenly, to the entrance of the palace shortly after 8am. The line was impressive, so long and winding we couldn’t see the unlucky chaps at the end of it all. Even they were luckier than we were. We were not getting in that day. Our only other choice was to arrive unreasonably early the next day and wait in line. Although many people assured us that we need only arrive a couple hours before the ticket booth opened at 8am, my cousin wanted to be one of the first people on line, hence arriving so early you might as well take a sleeping bag. At first I felt guilty that he was ‘taking one for the team’ and going to stand in line to ensure our entrance into one of the most remarkable sights in the world just about when I was entering my REM cycle, but then the clock started buzzing at 3am. You try waking up at 3am with jet lag, travel fatigue, and a sudden bout of I’m not a morning person. He left the hostel sometime after 2am and was behind only two other groups, a group of hippie Spaniards who had slept at the entrance overnight and a friendly Moroccan family who offered him some coffee brewed from homegrown coffee beans.
The Alhambra is definitely worth the wait. We were able to enjoy the benefit of entering early, as well as an early entrance time into the Nasrid Palace. The gardens are better enjoyed if you visit them in the afternoon. The sun can be brutal, but the flowers look their best under the sun’s rays. Alhambra means red fortress, and it certainly looks like a fortress when viewed from lookout point San Nicolas. You would think that this fortress would be filled with medieval Christian architecture rather than its distinctly arabesque designs. Originally an Islamic palace, it eventually fell into the hands of the Christian kings after the fall of the Islamic Empire in Spain.
The Alhambra is big but you can easily see everything in one day. The following are the major sites that you mustn’t miss.
Palacio Nazaries (Nasrid Palace)
The Nasrid Palace is one of the most elaborate and recognizable Islamic structures in all of Europe. It is known for the intricate stucco work, painted tile walls, and extensive courtyards. The palaces inside the Alhambra were erected for the Muslim sultans of Granada. In this palace you can walk though ceremony rooms, courtyards, private residences, and offices. As well as the time slot they give you to enter the Alhambra, you will also have a time slot for entering the Palacio Nazaries. Once you get inside you don’t have to worry about time for the rest of your visit.
The Court of Myrtles is an iconic image of the Alhambra and the Nasrid Palace. The Moors loved incorporating patios into their architecture. There are many theories as to what this particular court was used for. Some say that the sultan’s harem were kept upstairs behind the windows with wooden screens, after all, it isn’t appropriate for the sultan’s harem to be seen by other men. Others simply believe that the upstairs was used during the cooler winter months and the outdoor courtyard was used in the summer.
There are twelve lions around a fountain in the Court of Lions. The twelve lions were a gift from a prominent Jewish leader at the time. Granada had an extensive Jewish population, and a rich history of Christians, Muslims, and Jews living together, sometimes not in harmony. As for the significance of the twelve lions, historians aren’t certain, but they probably represent the 12 tribes of Israel. The lions were later turned into a clock that spouted water out of a different lion’s mouth according to the time of day. The clock no longer works after the Christian conquerors took it apart to see how it worked. Unfortunately, on my most recent visit to the Alhambra, the lions were taken away to be restored. The good news is that they are coming back soon, sometime in 2010.

Washington Irving penned his legendary story, Tales of the Alhambra, from within the Alhambra’s very walls. Irving’s work helped introduce western audiences to the treasures of the Alhambra.
Alcazaba
The Alcazaba is the fort of the Alhambra. Alhambra itself means fortress, making the Alcazaba the original Alhambra. It is the oldest and hence the most ruined of structures. This fort was used to defend the small town within the Alhambra wall. If you climb the high structures you will get amazing views of the Sierra Nevada, the city of Granada, and the Albazin.
Generalife Gardens
The Generalife Gardens are a short walk away on the opposite side of the grounds. If you have time to kill before your assigned entrance into the Nasrid Palace, you should make your way to these gardens and Generalife Palace.
These gardens were planted in an overzealous effort to create a paradise on earth. The flowers, shrubbery, and fountains are all said to have kept their Moorish character. Fruits and vegetables were also grown for the inhabitants of the palaces. The sultan is said to have enjoyed the Generalife Palace during the summer, when he could roam around the gardens and enjoys its fruits and flowers.
El Partal is right at the entrance of the Generalife Gardens. Here you will find another large courtyard with a pond. I imagine these ponds help keep the area cool during the hot summer months. They seem to do the trick.
Charles V’s Palace
The Alhambra wasn’t always under Islamic rule. Muslim Spain slowly came to an end, and Granada eventually fell from Islamic rule in 1492, when Ferdinand and Isabella took over Granada and the surrounding areas. When the Christians came into the power, they built their own structures, as conquering parties often do, within the Alhambra walls. Charles V constructed this palace with the money from the taxed Muslim population, another way of exerting Christian authority, and rubbing some salt on their wounds.


Buying Tickets For the Alhambra
- The best choice is to buy your tickets ahead of time on www.alhambra-tickets.es. Buying ahead of time will ensure that you won’t have to wait long on the line or risk not getting in at all.
- You could always wait in line like we did. This of course means that you will be up inconceivably early during high season and reasonably early during low season.
- Book with your hotel or hostel. Sometimes hotels put aside tickets for their guests.
- Pay for a tour. This of course is the more expensive option, but if you have no other choice it could be well worth it. Go to a local travel agency or hotel and see what tours are available.
When you buy a ticket, you are given an appointment time when you can enter the Alhambra and Nasrid palace. This prevents overcrowding. Make sure to arrive an hour before your assigned appointment to enter the Alhambra because you will most likely be waiting awhile on line (even if you bought your ticket ahead of time).
The floors of the Palace of Charles V are rather slippery. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
