Many people remember the experience of trekking to Machu Picchu as a mystical encounter, a way of getting in touch with yourself and taking in the energy of the mountains. Not being completely in tune with nature myself, I wasn’t sure what to expect. What I did know was that this trek was something I had to experience, a check off my proverbial list of things to do before I die.
We chose the Lares Trail, mainly because the more popular Inca Trail was sold out. If you want to reserve tickets for the Inca Trail you must do so way in advance. There are restrictions that only allow 500 trekkers per day, including guides and trekking staff, therefore it is harder to reserve a spot. The Lares Trail on the other hand, has less people walking around on any given day. It gives a somewhat more private feel to your tour. It is very rare that we passed another group on our trek. It literally felt like we were the only people trekking about. Another draw of the Lares Trail, one that many of the tourist agencies emphasize, is the fact that this trail takes you through the rural communities. It is the ‘off the beaten track’ trek so to speak, that allows you to have a bit of contact with the Quechua people.
Day 1
Your guides will pick you up very early so make sure to get a good night’s rest. We visited the town of Calca, a small town on the way to Lares Village. The drive through the Sacred Valley to the village takes about 3 hours from Cusco. The first stop was to the hot springs, which were essentially small man-made pools of hot water. After we dried off we drove to the beginning of the trail in and had lunch. Afterward we started the 2 1/2 hour trek to our campsite. Here is where we met a few campesinos and the most adorable children playing around in their backyard.
Day 2
This is the longest day of the trail. It was an approximate 7 hour hike to Cancha Cancha. We ended up staying at a closer campsite because our group got altitude sickness and was weary from the hours of walking. The highest point of the trek is Pachacutec Pass at 4,450 m (roughly 14,600 feet). At this point you will see the snow capped mountains up close and personal, and will most likely feel the harshest effect of altitude sickness.
Day 3
This a welcomed day of walking downhill. With each hour the effects of altitude sickness started to wear off almost instantly. The walk will take around 5 hours (longer if you are suffering sickness like we were). The trail ends at the village of Huaran where we stopped to eat lunch. Then we took a van to Ollantaytambo, where we had to catch a train to Aguas Calientes. We spent the night in Aguas Calientes at a hotel. The biggest difference between the Lares Trail and the Inca is that the Lares Trail doesn’t end up directly at Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is the only trail that actually ends at Machu Picchu. That is the one negative factor about Lares. The high of hiking and conquering the altitude is somewhat diminished after staying a night in a hotel room.
Day 4
Machu Picchu! Wake up early. The first bus up to Machu Picchu leaves before dawn. We lined up at 5am to make sure that we were first online. It may be a sacrifice to wake up at such a early hour, but it is worth it to arrive before all the crowds. Although even at 5am there will be a line forming and much more people following after.
More helpful tips:
The high season for all trails is from June to August. If you want to travel at these times you must book in advance. The rainy season is from November to March. Keep in mind that the climate in the Machu Picchu area is warm during the day and cold at night. The rainy season is the coldest and the ground will be wet. One good point of visiting during rainy season is that there will be less crowds and the clouds that give Machu Picchu and the surrounding area the mystic quality will be prevalent.
Altitude sickness afflicts many travelers who aren’t used to the heights. While being physically fit may not completely protect you from the effects of altitude sickness, it is important to be certain that you are able to do what is physically required of you. You will be hiking for many hours for a couple of days. The Salkantay Trail is said to be one of the most difficult because of the constant ascending and descending in the mountains.
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