by Elena on October 28, 2009
Before the foggy mist descended upon us and we fell asleep to the background music of Huayno, we stopped to set up camp near a house where some children were playing in the backyard. They were shy at first, hiding behind a rock wall, and only popping over when they wanted us to play with them. One thing you notice right away while talking to the children is the burgundy color of their cheeks caused by the harsh winds of the mountains. Their skin is tough and bruised. At night the temperature dip really low and remain the same in the mornings before the sun could rise above the mountains. All the children have to walk to school, through the rocky terrain, a task that was so difficult for us, yet effortless for them, as they ran while talking and laughing.
We encountered lots of other people on the trail. Our guide cautioned us on giving the children food, in particular candies which they frequently asked for. There are not many available dentists and many of the kids have teeth that are rotting and falling out. Try saying no to a bunch of wide-eyed children asking for something as small as a piece of candy. It’s not easy. I asked the kids what their names were and they surprised me with English names like Nelly and Roy here. Our guide explained that many of the Quechua people started to name their kids after celebrities and popular Anglo names. Nelly Furtado maybe?
While the Quechua people do not wear wedding rings there is a way to distinguish who is married and who is single. Men traditionally wear a hat with multicolored pieces of fabric hanging off the sides. If the fabric is hanging on both sides of the hat it means they are married. Their single counterparts have the pieces tied up in the back. In the picture below you can see the bright colored hats. These clothes made it easy to spot another person walking along the isolated trails. The impressing part is that the dye and make the clothes themselves, using the various plants and wildlife found around their homes.
Image via: quinet.
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by Elena on October 27, 2009
Many people remember the experience of trekking to Machu Picchu as a mystical encounter, a way of getting in touch with yourself and taking in the energy of the mountains. Not being completely in tune with nature myself, I wasn’t sure what to expect. What I did know was that this trek was something I had to experience, a check off my proverbial list of things to do before I die.
We chose the Lares Trail, mainly because the more popular Inca Trail was sold out. If you want to reserve tickets for the Inca Trail you must do so way in advance. There are restrictions that only allow 500 trekkers per day, including guides and trekking staff, therefore it is harder to reserve a spot. The Lares Trail on the other hand, has less people walking around on any given day. It gives a somewhat more private feel to your tour. It is very rare that we passed another group on our trek. It literally felt like we were the only people trekking about. Another draw of the Lares Trail, one that many of the tourist agencies emphasize, is the fact that this trail takes you through the rural communities. It is the ‘off the beaten track’ trek so to speak, that allows you to have a bit of contact with the Quechua people.
Day 1
Your guides will pick you up very early so make sure to get a good night’s rest. We visited the town of Calca, a small town on the way to Lares Village. The drive through the Sacred Valley to the village takes about 3 hours from Cusco. The first stop was to the hot springs, which were essentially small man-made pools of hot water. After we dried off we drove to the beginning of the trail in and had lunch. Afterward we started the 2 1/2 hour trek to our campsite. Here is where we met a few campesinos and the most adorable children playing around in their backyard.
Day 2
This is the longest day of the trail. It was an approximate 7 hour hike to Cancha Cancha. We ended up staying at a closer campsite because our group got altitude sickness and was weary from the hours of walking. The highest point of the trek is Pachacutec Pass at 4,450 m (roughly 14,600 feet). At this point you will see the snow capped mountains up close and personal, and will most likely feel the harshest effect of altitude sickness.
Day 3
This a welcomed day of walking downhill. With each hour the effects of altitude sickness started to wear off almost instantly. The walk will take around 5 hours (longer if you are suffering sickness like we were). The trail ends at the village of Huaran where we stopped to eat lunch. Then we took a van to Ollantaytambo, where we had to catch a train to Aguas Calientes. We spent the night in Aguas Calientes at a hotel. The biggest difference between the Lares Trail and the Inca is that the Lares Trail doesn’t end up directly at Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is the only trail that actually ends at Machu Picchu. That is the one negative factor about Lares. The high of hiking and conquering the altitude is somewhat diminished after staying a night in a hotel room.
Day 4
Machu Picchu! Wake up early. The first bus up to Machu Picchu leaves before dawn. We lined up at 5am to make sure that we were first online. It may be a sacrifice to wake up at such a early hour, but it is worth it to arrive before all the crowds. Although even at 5am there will be a line forming and much more people following after.
More helpful tips:
The high season for all trails is from June to August. If you want to travel at these times you must book in advance. The rainy season is from November to March. Keep in mind that the climate in the Machu Picchu area is warm during the day and cold at night. The rainy season is the coldest and the ground will be wet. One good point of visiting during rainy season is that there will be less crowds and the clouds that give Machu Picchu and the surrounding area the mystic quality will be prevalent.
Altitude sickness afflicts many travelers who aren’t used to the heights. While being physically fit may not completely protect you from the effects of altitude sickness, it is important to be certain that you are able to do what is physically required of you. You will be hiking for many hours for a couple of days. The Salkantay Trail is said to be one of the most difficult because of the constant ascending and descending in the mountains.
Lares Trail Photo Gallery
by Elena on October 20, 2009
The day before we started our trek to Machu Picchu we met with our tour guide for a quick question and answer session. Our excitement slowly turned to a subtle anxiety with each carefree joke he made about the dangers of such a hike. He smiled as he told us he was sick, while swishing around a power drink, Peruvian Gatorade so to speak, in his left hand. With each sway of the bottle my stomach turned, an inevitable foreshadowing of what was to come. Still he assured us that we will be fine, leaving us awkwardly laughing and bewildered by his dark humor and self deprecating demeanor. Is he serious? Wait so my brain can hemorrhage if I don’t drink enough water? How is this funny again?
The bit of anxiety was probably for the better because before that moment I was feeling a false sense of security. Pshh we’ll be fine. High altitude sickness is for pansies. It’s different when heeding the advice of an expert versus reading a guidebook. Suddenly your inflated sense of self subsides and the reality of the situation (hiking for days at high altitude) starts to sink in.
After instilling a tiny bit of fear, our guide gave us some advice on what we need to bring for the trip. I created a list of his suggestions, combined with some things I felt were useful for me on the trek.
Water is very important. In order to prevent altitude sickness, you must keep hydrated, sipping water every 15 minutes or so when you are feeling sick. On organized trips such as ours, water is provided. Don’t worry they boil it in order to prevent sickness. I would suggest you avoid drinking from any stream you find along the trail. It looks tempting, however our guide told us a story about a group of his who decided to take a shower in a stream a long the way, and they all ended up stranded in the mountains, fighting off various sicknesses. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather stay dirty.
Flashlights and headlights are very useful for rummaging around at night. A headlight may seem weird, but when you are looking for something in the middle of the night in freezing weather, you won’t care how ridiculous you look. You can tie up a flashlight in your tent in order to make it easier for moving around. It isn’t completely pitch black outside, however, we were able to benefit from the clear skies and light of the moon.
Toilet paper is your friend. I do not need to emphasize that there is no bathrooms or running water along the way. You will be 3 days in the great outdoors. Bring that paper.
Disposable plastic bags are necessary in order to store things in them. I didn’t think I would need them, but they ended up being useful. Also keep in mind that you can’t just throw away your garbage on the trail. You have to carry everything with you, or give your trash to the guides on the trip with you. Bags make everything easier.
Sunscreen is necessary if you don’t want to get burned from walking in direct sunlight for hours. A hat will also help.
Sleeping bags are provided for an extra cost. Rent the bags. Who wants to be lugging around sleeping bags.
Sleeping bag sacks or liners are great because they keep you extra warm and they also shield you from directly touching the sleeping bags you rent. I suggest getting a silk liner because the threading is much more tight, and harder for bed bugs to get into. Cotton is cheaper, but more things can pass through.
Snacks, especially chocolate, give you energy and prevent altitude sickness. If you start to feel light headed you should have some sort of sugar. Our guide gave us lemon drops whenever we started to feel sick.
You will need to carry a daypack with you. The mules and other guides will be carrying your regular bags and backpacks (there is a weight limit) and they will speed ahead of you. Everything you need easy access to (medicine, camera) should be in your daypack. Don’t make it too heavy because you have to carry it.
Travel towel in order to clean your face and wash up. There are many different kinds of towels that are made to dry quickly.
Warm clothes and jacket will probably be one of the most important things to bring. Because of the high altitude the temperatures can drop significantly. If you travel during the rainy season it will also be colder. A warm hiking jacket will be the best for you.
by Elena on October 15, 2009
Legend tells the story of Ichabod Crane, a scrawny school teacher from Sleepy Hollow who takes a fateful ride into the forest and confronts the ghost of the Headless Horsemen. This story, penned by Washington Irving in “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow,” insinuates that the Headless Horseman was not really a crazed ghost or killer, but rather a fellow townsman looking to prey upon Ichabod’s superstitious nature. In his movie, Tim Burton makes Sleepy Hollow the setting for a string of murders, and Ichabod the beautiful Johnny Depp, a slight (but welcomed) character change from the original story.  The misty haze and brushwood in the film, however, is not far from the truth of the surrounding woods of Sleepy Hollow Village, on a cold, autumn day.
Sleepy Hollow Village is more than a legend, in fact it is a small part of Tarrytown NY, just 40 minutes north of New York City. The village itself is pretty customary of the surrounding area. The boutique shops, colonial architecture, and overall greenery contribute to the small town air.  The village officially changed its name to Sleepy Hollow in 1996, in order to commemorate Washington Irving’s story, and no doubt take advantage of the tourist draw, especially this time of year before Halloween.
The town recreates the legend at Philipsburg Manor, where people dressed up as ghosts and ghouls will great you as you tour the grounds. There is even a Headless Horseman riding around with his pumpkin head. The reenactment is fun, but it is not exactly the place for thrill seekers looking to be scared this Halloween, although getting lost in the surrounding small towns and dark forests was not a pleasant experience. For someone like me, who loves fall and all of its components (apple cider, pumpkin spice, apple picking) it is a fun trip. Nearby there is a pumpkin art installation (yes you read correctly) called the Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze. It is much more secluded and creepy than the reenactment at Sleepy Hollow. There are what seems like thousands of carved pumpkins and figures spread out another manor. The Historic Hudson Valley has all the details you need for your visit.
The infamous Headless Horseman.
Bad acting at Sleepy Hollow.
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by Elena on October 14, 2009
I am very happy this week because I was able switch over to WordPress from Blogger. Seeing as I’m not really an expert at HTML or PHP (or any other intimidating techie acronyms), I had to play around with the design. I oh so humbly pat myself on the back for learning the little bit that I did without banging my head on my keyboard. Did you know that you have to wait 5-7 days in order to switch from one host to another? News to me.
But alas Gringa Española is up and running under the same domain, and with a different look. There is a new photography section that I will be updating. For the new design I choose the Thesis Wordpress Theme. It gives me the flexibility that I want and helps a fledgling blogger like myself deal with all the intricacies of WordPress.
Hope you enjoy the new design!
by Elena on October 5, 2009
The Guardian travel blog most recently published a post about travel writing and whether or not this somewhat self-indulgent art form is in fact truth or fiction. They argue that the line between truth and fiction is often blurred because writers may ‘introduce “colour”, altering the sequence of events to make a book or article “flow.”
Of course these types of exaggerations don’t have a place in guide books or instructional articles because they require accurate research on accommodation, budget, and description of sites; however, when it comes to personal accounts of travel, does “colour” interfere with the purpose of the story. Writers such as Tim Cahill and Bill Bryson have long inspired me to travel and experience Road Fever. Their perspective and slightly off humor personal accounts are clearly from their perspective. There is no confusion about that.
When I think of the times that I may ‘colour’ a story on some of my recent travels, they are hardly ever a declaration of a falsehood. This year while traveling on a trail towards Machu Picchu, I experienced a horrible bout of food poisoning and altitude sickness. At the time I was in the middle of the mountains with no easy route back to a doctor or even a moving vehicle. Was I close to death? Hell no. But did I feel like it? I guess you could say that (a mixture of puking, dizziness, and difficulty breathing can certainly change a person’s perspective). When a tour guide suggests to take some oxygen to help with breathing, rationality tends to go out the window. Let’s just say that the colour added to this story was in fact, an accurate, but emotionally exaggerated depiction of the truth.
by Elena on October 1, 2009
The Wall Street Journal has declared the top cities for the Young and Restless. They dutifully noted that less people are moving around, no doubt because of the uncertain economy, but they predict that when things pick up, so will those young and restless souls looking for a new city to call home. These cities have a few similarities, for one they are big urban cities, with plenty of financial opportunities. People aren’t flocking to smaller, less pragmatic towns because of financial constraints, although Portland made the list, so the allure of the bohemian isn’t completely lost.
Washington DC – 1st Place (tie)
New job prospects in government, and an extremely popular president, are very appealing to young urban professionals looking to make a name for themselves. “In the eyes of some people, Barack Obama is America’s coolest boss.” Although the chances of overhearing political jargon during happy hour in D.C. is as high as overhearing financial musings over lunch in New York City, you need not work in politics in order to enjoy living in this town. While politics may rule, there are plenty of other factors that attract the upwardly mobile masses. In neighborhoods such as Adam’s Morgan you will find bookstores, bars, farmer’s markets, restaurants, art galleries, and coffeehouses; a far cry from the expanse of Capitol Hill.
Seattle, WA – First Place (tie)
For someone like me, who has been dying to visit this west coast city, I concur with Seattle’s inclusion on the list, mostly because of my own preconceptions. Seattle seems to be where the innovative (think Starbucks and Amazon) mix with their rugged, nature loving friends. Not to mention the beautiful terrain that lies just outside of the city. Of course there are a few disadvantages, although I won’t over saturate you with my complaints of constant rain and never-ending humidity. Ok and I admit, I also really want to see those flying fish at the Pike Place Fish Market.
Image via: Phil Roman
New York City- Third Place
New York City is an obvious choice for many. The city attracts people from all over the world who have to live in this iconic city. It certainly lives up to the hype. Frankly it boggles my mind how so many young people, working on measly salaries (perhaps an entry-level media job or a waitress gig to pay for school) can afford to live in such an expensive city. I don’t know how, but I do know why. Because they love it. It is that simple. You have to live in New York City to truly understand the charm and madness that collide in these yellow taxi filled streets. There are some who complain about the noise and the frenetic pace, the ones who have told me that, ‘eh NYC just isn’t for me.’ This East coast girl tends to tune them out.
Portland, OR – Fourth Place
Portland is quirky and for lack of better terminology seems to be the ‘trend’ as of late. With good reason of course. There is a deeply rooted artistic scene in Portland that has been attracting artists and free spirits for quite some time. The unemployment rate (11.2%) doesn’t seem to bother these folks. The appeal is that it may be the anti-big city. There isn’t the frantic pace and the preconceived judgments about how much money you make or who you work for. It seems that Portland promotes a more laid back approach to city life, something that Pacific Northwest cities do so well.
Image via: egazelle
Austin, TX – Fifth Place
When people talk about Texas, Austin always gets a lot of praise. Austin has a slightly cooler climate than other cities in the state, as well as a youthful culture. If the neighborhood has good bars, trendy restaurants, galleries, and good coffee, give it some time and the young and hip will soon follow.
Image via: Kafka0622
